Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
